Golden Age of small breweries at famous Bronze Age site

During the Bronze Age, a site located northwest of Prague, where now village called Únětice is, was home to an archeological culture, which expanded to whole Central Europe. These days a different sort of culture is expanding from Únětice – beer culture. And one has to admit this invasion has brought joy and pleasure instead of harm (except of possible hangover). Before the succesful spreading of this iconic booze could begin, several things had had to happen. Firstly, brewery in Únětice took all benefits of growing popularity of smaller breweries. Then, of course, there was a great effort to renew the old premises of Únětice brewery, which was founded in 1710, but it started to decline after Second World War and the communist era meant the end of beer production in Únětice. Fortunately, in 2010 project of Únětice brewery reborn started and this became a reality in June 2011.

Beer characteristics

Unetice beer, photo: Martin Hrbek

Unetice beer, photo: Martin Hrbek

Before we start the pilgrimage to the Mecca of Central Bohemian beer drinkers, we should get the necessary knowledge: the brewery regularly makes two types of lager plus some special ones for particular events. Únětická desítka is strongly hopped light lager, whose base is Czech malt made with a high involvement of handwork in the local malthouse. It is surprisingly bitter with quite low amount of alcohol. This enables us to drink all the evening without getting drunk to death. The other possibility is Únětická dvanáctka. This is premium lager, with typical yeast scent. The colour is golden with slight yeast cloud.

Travel preparations

Knowing this, we can begin our journey. The best starting point is Restaurant Na Slamníku, Wolkerova 12, Praha 6, where you can have a couple of solid Únětická Dvanáctka. Then we need to move a bit downwards to Bubeneč railway station and take a train to Roztoky town, it takes about 10 minuts and there are two trains every hour. When you get out of the train, look for the signpost. It is a very important thing, otherwise you will probably need to use your GPS device. After succesful finding the right way to Únětice (yes, the blue trial, yes 4km, which is around 2.5 miles), we are also expected to hang out for one more Únětická Dvanáctka in the centre of Roztoky. Café bar Eiffel on Tyršovo náměstí is more than proper place for this purpose. The interior is worth visiting and so is the pleasant service. Finish your glasses, it’s time to enjoy some wild.

Enjoy the wild around Prague

The trial from Roztoky to Únětice goes through quite a nice wood, fortunately all the wolves, bears and other dangerous animals have been hunted a long time ago. However, the travellers are recommended not to wear red riding hood and not to taste any snow, especially that of yellow color. Also, be careful when handling with fire. And do not try to swim in the brook. It’s too shallow and full of rocks. The journey takes no more than one hour and you can enjoy some lovely view of the landscape around. A the very border of Únětice you will probably notice quite high rocky hill called Alšova Vyhlídka which offers a great challenge of climbing effort that is rewarded by a spectacular sight of Únětice and even the spires of Prague Castle (if you are lucky and the weather allows that).

First contact with Únětice culture

At this point you are really very close to the goal of the journey – the magnificent brewery is just at the opposite way of the village. However there’s one danger which can completely smash the travelling plan. Just in the middle of the village, a few hundred steps before the brewery, there’s a rustical pub called “U Lasíků“ which offers Únětické pivo (first contact with it within the village of Únětice) and delicous pies. In the result, this actual place is so difficult to leave that you can easily miss the opening hours of the brewery. Concentrating one’s will to hit the road one more time takes a lot of effort, but the result is worth this ascension. Just a few hundred feet and you can admire the gate of Únětický pivovar. In the spring and summer months, the visitors can enjoy sitting outside, although the premises inside are really a must see thing. On Sundays and Staurdays there are brewery excursion held, always at the midday. This is a mandatory event for those who are interested in beer production. The brass brewhouses and other things are true sources of inspiration for having some more of this splendid beer. After the excursion there is the right time for some lunch. We recommend a two handed hamburger with fries, but the menu offers something for everybody, even for vegans and vegetarians. The brewery also has a “culture menu“ – various concerts, theatre plays, competitions and events for children are “á la carte“.

How to get home

I hope the travellers got some inspiration from my not –far-from-Prague trip. Now it’s time to get home. There’s a bus stop around the corner but checking the timetable is a good idea, as the public transport does not visit this paradise as often as other paradises within the city of Prague. However it takes only 20 minutes to get to Dejvická metro station. Sober people may try walking across Kozí Hřbety and Suchdol, but it’s a different travel story.

Author: Martin Hrbek

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