Great railway tips

Railway transport in Prague has passed several periods of wild development. Do you know the Czech republic is the country with the highest density of railway network? Also, Prague is a city with one of the highest densities of station pubs. Of course in terms of travel drinking, nothing can compete with the bar just in the departure lounge at Dublin airport, but Prague station pubs also have great atmosphere.

Station pub, photo: Martin Hrbek /

One of the station pubs, photo: Martin Hrbek /

There are weird station pubs, one of them can be found at Smíchov station. Also bad station pubs can be found in Prague, one of them at Libeň station. There are also good station pubs, like the one in Braník. Recently a changes in Prague railway transport system gave birth to a railway station pub without a station – it can be found at former station in Bubeneč, which was shut down in August.

No doubt the most legendary one is Dejvická Nádražka, located at Dejvice station, Prague 6, just a few minutes’ walk form Hradčanská underground station. Why is Dejvická Nádražka so legendary? First reason is probably the look of the place as well as the mixture of its visitors. A plumber in a blue overall sitting next to a suited up lawyer and a rastaman with long dreadlocks opposite to them is quite a common picture here. The biggest mystery, though, is the mission of this place. Dejvická Nádražka is actually a church of Miloš Frýba, a popular 1960’s to 1980’s TV MC. You can see many portraits of him and there is a sign 8:50 on the floor, which reflects the time when Miloš Frýba used to announce the TV news on Czechoslovakian Channel 1 back in the 1960‘s. The biggest day in Dejvická nádražka is 25th January, called “Frýbestr“. Everybody is supposed to drink from 8.50 AM to 8.50 PM and songs celebrating Miloš Frýba are sung on the stage, because Dejvická Nádražka is partly a music club.

Music club Black Pes, photo: ŠJů, CC BY-SA 3.0

Music club Black Pes, photo: ŠJů, CC BY-SA 3.0

On the other end end of Prague, another interesting station pub can be found. Well, a pub. Music club Black Pes is a music club with everything music clubs are supposed to have. Plus the railway station. The environment here is more or less punk and metal like and the character of toilets is the same. If you want to see real amateur Czech bands, Black Pes is the right place. It is a bit further from the city center, but you can reach it by train, which is very fast… and romantic.

Just one station beyond Prague’s border, in Úvaly, there is also one place worth mentioning. Úvaly station does not have a proper station pub (but there is one just across the street). However, it has one special thing – a railway station bakery. It is called Jitřenka (Morning star), opens at 5.30 and closes at 9.30. Why is it so special? In the morning, you can buy a delicious home-made (or station-made) cake without any chemical additives and a coffee or tea to go.

Author: Martin Hrbek

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